I could explain the absence of a post for the last 4 (or is it 5?) days because of the lack of wifi. And that is at least part of the reason for not posting. But the bigger reason is island life itself. Four days of this laid back existence and I worry, how will we cope with Split and after that Rome? Rome!
First it was the 2 hour ferry from Split. The blue sea and sky, the wind, the mountains, the islands receding into the distance, they all set the stage for Vis. As the ferry turned around the peninsula of Priviro came the sounds of a marching band. And there beside them was a twirling corp of young women dressed in street clothes. A flash mob twirling corp? Zak's mum explained that the town was practicing for an expected delegation from a Slovenian city interested in twinning with Vis. The blue sky gave way to an overcast sky and a constant cool damp wind. It was the southern wind, the Jugo. Islanders know their winds. Each wind is named and each has distinct characteristics, Jugo is the bad one, the one that makes people crazy. Town meetings are rescheduled when the Jugo blows. Welcome to Vis, known to the Greeks, Romans, and Byzantines as Issa.
The next day the Jugo cleared and the languid business of wandering around the town began. Both Vis and it's connected village of Kut have seen better days. Too many of the gorgeous sepia-toned buildings are in ruins and some of the most splendid Renaissance palaces are subdivided. That it was past the summer peak season added to the sense of ennui. Island life centres around the big midday meal followed by afternoon siesta followed by a late afternoon swim. We got into the drift soon enough.
Beyond the lack of Wifi, beyond "island life" there is actually a third reason for not writing. And that is, that there are no imperial footsteps to follow here. But for Byzantine emperor, Constantine Porphorygenitus' one mention of Issa in his famous work, Administering the Empire, there is no record of a Caesar, an Augustus, or a Tetrach setting foot here. It's odd that they didn't because, being at the crossroads of the Adriatic, Vis is strategically important. It seems that everyone has sailed over it and then marched through, except the Avars and Ottoman Turks.
We've spent a lot of time at Zak's mum's place here meeting the extended family. And so it came to me that Zak's mum's house is the Vis / Issa experience in minature. Although now drywalled over, the back wall of the kitchen conceals an enormous boulder. There is some family disagreement about it: some say it's part of Neolithic wall, others say that it's a Roman construction. That it's not a natural feature, all agree on.
Built into the front wall of the house is nifty bit of spolia, an ancient Greek tombstone. And get this, there used to be a second Greek tombstone, this second one built into the back wall of the house. Sadly (depending on your perspective) this one was claimed by the archaeology dept as the family moved it from the wall while doing a bathroom renovation. Seems you can keep such spolia that's built into your house, but once you disturb it, it becomes state property. (Picture to come, after I figure out how to climb up onto the ledge and get one!)
As if this wasn't enough, the platform in the backyard was the base of a British communication station during WWII.
To add one more layer to the historic palimpsest, the house is also a living example of class and economic divisions of a Mediterranean town. In this hillside town, the closer to the water you are the higher your status and economic position. The higher you are, the closer you are to your poor farming roots. We're high up on the hill and the view is gorgeous.
All this history underfoot and inhouse makes up for the lack of imperial footsteps. It took me a few days to get it.
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