I would wear it, but my job won't allow that.
To drink or not ....
All the women are looking at me.
My coat, my coat on my shoulders.
All the ladies have fallen in love with me.
My hat, my hat, on my forehead.
All the village has fallen in love with me."
Day 1 in Belgrade was a welter of history, politics, religion, arts and culture, oh, and graffiti--lots of graffiti. From the city's last surviving mosque (around the corner from our apartment and our go-to breakfast spot, Smokvica) to streets named for assassin/heroes, patriarchs, generals, to the enormous still unfinished St Sava to buildings damaged by NATO--we're just scratching the surface. And yet it feels as if we've been here forever--and still there's so much to go.
Walking to Saint Sava, we passed some what seemed like vicious homophobic graffiti. A short distance away was a huge poster of an respected celebrated openly gay actor. I wasn't thinking clearly--I didn't get a picture of the graffiti, but did of the actor--and when this app cooperates, I'll post it.
That evening we met Zak's family, Petar, Nina, and Igor for supper on Skardarlija street. The cobblestoned street winds along with patio restaurants on both sides. A tourist trap it was not, the area is known for its authentic Serbian food and music.
My coat, my coat on my shoulders.
All the ladies have fallen in love with me.
My hat, my hat, on my forehead.
All the village has fallen in love with me."
Day 1 in Belgrade was a welter of history, politics, religion, arts and culture, oh, and graffiti--lots of graffiti. From the city's last surviving mosque (around the corner from our apartment and our go-to breakfast spot, Smokvica) to streets named for assassin/heroes, patriarchs, generals, to the enormous still unfinished St Sava to buildings damaged by NATO--we're just scratching the surface. And yet it feels as if we've been here forever--and still there's so much to go.
Walking to Saint Sava, we passed some what seemed like vicious homophobic graffiti. A short distance away was a huge poster of an respected celebrated openly gay actor. I wasn't thinking clearly--I didn't get a picture of the graffiti, but did of the actor--and when this app cooperates, I'll post it.
That evening we met Zak's family, Petar, Nina, and Igor for supper on Skardarlija street. The cobblestoned street winds along with patio restaurants on both sides. A tourist trap it was not, the area is known for its authentic Serbian food and music.
Beside us was a table of guys, both Russian and Serbian. As the drinks flowed the guys got into the music played by the Roma band. Request followed request, and everyone at the table sang along. People from other tables came over and joined in. But, the most surprising thing was that Nina and Igor (Zak's niece and nephew) weren't familiar with the music and with Skardarlija itself. For me this spoke to the changes in Serbian culture brought about by Internet access. I'm not saying old is good and new bad. Rather, there is something to be said for a shared inter-generational culture.
The restaurant is called My Hat, and it was named after the song.
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